Some Mongolian Birds

Demoiselle Crane, the smallest of the world's 15 cranes, is a common breeding species in Mongolia. Pairs mate for life and raise two chicks. After the breeding season they form large flocks and migrate to grasslands and wetlands such as the Little Rann of Kutch in Western India to escape Mongolia's fierce winters. Also here are a few larger White-naped Cranes, a rarer species whose main population is in Manchuria, on the borders of China and Russia. 

This Saker Falcon was nesting in an old Raven's nest in a Siberian birch on the edge of the rolling steppe typical of northern Mongolia. As we watched it, we heard a commotion behind us: an immature Golden Eagle was flying through the territory, being harried by the male Saker. These feed mostly on rodents, and are declining through habitat loss and being taken from the nest as eggs or chicks to be sold to Arab falconers. Here's an interesting fact about falcons: just recently studies have shown that they are not related at all to hawks. They are now placed between the woodpeckers and parrots!

This immature Steppe Eagle is another raptor that helps to keep a check on the huge populations of ground-squirrels and voles. In many areas we walked in, the ground was littered with burrows (which were also used as nest-holes by birds such as Isabelline Wheatear and Père David's Snowfinch). The adults are much darker; in winter they migrate mostly to East Africa. 

The rocky gorges of the Gobi mountains hold healthy populations of Bearded Vultures. There is a move to use this name in preference to Lammergeier ('lamb vulture') since they don't take lambs and don't deserve that reputation. Raptors do not need any more bad press! The wing-span is almost three metres, and they are famous for dropping large mammal bones onto rocks below to expose the marrow that is their particular favourite food. With long wedge-shaped tail and widely separated primaries, they have a unique silhouette and a brilliantly elegant flight-style.

And now for something completely different! The Mongolian Lark is a spectacular large lark, 20 cm in length: very distinctive too with rufous crown and wings, and startling white secondaries in flight. They are common in areas that are not too overgrazed, with cover for nesting and an abundance of weed seeds. But most of the steppe we travelled through has suffered the ravages of too many flocks and herds. Trampling of eggs and chicks must be a constant problem for larks in Mongolia. 

The Swan Goose is a declining species, since it is hunted in its Chinese wintering grounds. (Click on the image to enlarge). One lake we visited had a grazing flock of 500 or so, which made a wonderful sight as they flew over us to rest on the water. Around the capital Ulaanbaatar we came across a few families with goslings. The same lake shore had three eagle species too: Steppe, a wandering immature Golden, and a rare Great Spotted. 

The Gobi steppe has small numbers of this elegant Oriental Plover breeding. This is the white-headed male; the female has more camouflage for incubating. In the same habitat is the Greater Sandplover. We saw both species on our first morning in the Gobi, along with our first Bactrian Camels and Pallas's Sandgrouse. Like most waders, this plover has a clutch of three or four eggs. It migrates to south-east Asia and Northern Australia.

This is the male Pallas's Sandgrouse, which we usually saw in pairs or small groups. In some years they can be seen by the thousand. A century ago, they would occasionally wander to western Europe, and there have even been breeding records in Britain (Yorkshire and Moray, 1908). Now these eruptions no longer happen, presumably since the population has reduced with more steppe being converted to agriculture.    

Finally, the bird that my group seemed to enjoy more than any other: Henderson's Ground Jay. They are a true corvid, that makes a nest in an almond bush in a dry watercourse. On our last day we watched four birds for half an hour: two were burying almonds just as our jays bury acorns. Sandy coloured on the ground, they show a striking black and white wing pattern in flight. But usually they prefer to run. One we followed for a while was an expert in outwitting us, running over ridges and disappearing, sometimes doubling back on itself. Three of the above photos are mine - for the others I have to thank Mitko Petrakiev and Purevsuren Tsolmonjav.  

Mongolia

A week ago I returned from co-leading the first Ornitholidays tour to Mongolia. We flew via Beijing, and visited the Terelj National park first, in the north. This is the Terelj river, which flows into Lake Baikal in Siberia, on the southern edge of the great boreal forest known as taiga. By the river poplars and willows grow well; on the hillsides around grow substantial forests of Siberian birch and Siberian larch. The bird life includes Daurian Redstart, Pine Bunting, Isabelline Wheatear, Olive-backed Pipit, Daurian Jackdaw and Red-billed Chough. I will illustrate some of the birds we saw in the next blog - this is just an introduction to the country.  

In almost every place, we stayed in gers (the Mongolian word for yurts). This one is fancier than most - but they were all spacious, with two beds, and a stove which we needed some evenings since we had cold Siberian winds on some days. The stoves burn wood, coal, and (most commonly) dried dung. Gers are also used by nomadic herders whose large flocks of sheep and goats are a feature of the country. In Terelj we also saw plenty of yaks and yak-cow hybrids. 

In the second week we flew to the south of Mongolia, to the great Gobi Desert. Most of it is stony steppe-desert, beautifully scented with Artemisia (wormwood) when you walk on it. Mongolia is the only country with wild camels: the two-humped Bactrian. However, the ones we saw were all domesticated - many are used for riding. Not all flat, the Gobi has ranges of hills and rocky gorges inhabited by Lammergeiers and Golden Eagles.  In the flatter areas live Pallas's Sandgrouse and small numbers of Oriental Plovers. Before overgrazing became an issue, it must have been a paradise for Great and MacQueen's Bustards too. (The latter used to be called Houbara - but is now split, with Houbaras confined to North Africa and Canaries). There are also plenty of rodents - ground squirrels, pikas, voles and gerbils. 

The famous Gobi sand-dunes are confined to one small area: 160 km long, on average about 8 km wide, and impressively high. A stream flows along the bottom, making a great contrast with the lush grass and patches of blue iris. Here we found Demoiselle Cranes, Ruddy Shelduck, Lesser Kestrels, Asian Short-toed Larks, Saxaul Sparrows and Asian Desert Warblers. 

Here's a staff photo - our two drivers on the left, Puji our Mongolian guide, my co-leader Mitko and myself. We travelled in two Russian UAZ 4x4s - amazingly sturdy vehicles which went almost everywhere including up and down the steepest of hills. We were up on a ridge scanning for Goitered (or Black-tailed) Gazelles, which we found the following day. 

Deserts are usually defined as areas that receive less than 10 inches of rain a year. Here our leading UAZ has just emerged from an axle-deep flash flood pouring across the steppe from the nearby hills where torrential rain fell one morning. The sandgrouse didn't have far to fly for a drink that day. We came away from our June week in the Gobi with our preconceptions changed - throughout our stay it was much colder and wetter there than during the same week in the UK! I'll be taking thermal gear next visit - then no doubt Gobi will be back to its usual summer baking heat.  

Lesvos

This Black Stork in the Tsiknias River got our Lesvos week off to a great start. I was there leading an Ornitholidays group, from 3 to 10 May. Black Storks are mostly passage migrants here, but a few pairs stay and breed. I saw one a few years back carrying a stick for a nest in the craggy Lardia Valley. On their migration they are often indecisive, circling over likely feeding areas for minutes before choosing either to stop or continue.  

This sleepy Scops Owl was one of three adults roosting at a traditional grove of eucalypts not surprisingly known as the scops copse. Their camouflage is often brilliant, but this one gave us a chance. They are also summer visitors, wintering in Africa, south of the Sahara but north of the Equator. At night their repeated piu call is a distinctive Mediterranean summer sound.

This female Little Bittern was one of the highlights of our week, as we watched it hoovering up large tadpoles in a river near Sigri, in the west of the island. As with many of the Lesvos migrants, it's hard to know if it would stay and breed, but probably it will fly on to larger reedbeds near the Black Sea. But with the river seething with tadpoles, it would be in no hurry to move on! 

Back to owls! We met a farmer tending his olive grove, who invited us in to see a special family that has taken up residence. This Long-eared Owl is one of two
chicks raised in nearby pines in an old Hooded Crow nest. Still covered in down and three-quarters grown, they call at night for food like squeaky gates. Resident in the UK in small numbers, they are much more numerous in Greece, and usually strictly nocturnal.

This Orphean Warbler was a surprise, since I saw it in the road and stopped to move it. It had probably suffered a glancing blow from a vehicle, but luckily it flew away strongly. So called for its rich song, it is named for Orpheus, the mythical bard famous in ancient Greek legend. Normally it takes more patience to obtain close-up views and photos of this fine warbler, a larger relative of our Whitethroat.   

This Woodchat Shrike perches on a sign that means 'keep the environment clean.' It's another example of the excellent migration that passes through Lesvos in late April and early May. Most of the birding groups visit in late April, but there are still many birders around in May. Almost all of them are only too happy to give and receive news on what's about. 

But a May visit to Lesvos isn't just about birds. It's also superb for wild flowers, with a riot of colour along the roads and on the hillsides. The landscapes are superb too, with pine forests in the east, oak parkland in the centre, and treeless rocky ridges in the west. The friendly locals and the superb Greek food in the tavernas help to make a week here even better. The flowers (along the north shore) and the owls are my photos; but for the others, many thanks to Brigid Campbell.   

Taiwan - a few birds

Swinhoe's Pheasant can be found on the lower slopes of the mountain forests of Taiwan. Formerly it was common throughout the lowlands too, but development has left little room for them there. There are well-known spots where photographers tempt them out onto the verges to feed on grain. The female is also beautifully patterned, in various shades of brown - more suitable for staying hidden during incubation. 

The Pheasant-tailed Jacana is widespread in south-east Asia, but needs large areas of freshwater with water-lilies. In Taiwan it only hangs on in one small area, which was threatened by a new railway development. Luckily local conservationists started a campaign - ultimately successful - to divert the railway round the jacana's lakes. It is now a reserve popular with local photographers and schoolchildren. Males and females have similar plumage, but only the male incubates the eggs and protects the young. 

We came across this Bronzed Drongo making a nest a few feet up above a farm track. Drongos are an interesting family of fly-catching birds, spread throughout Asia, Australasia and Africa in both open and forest habitats. This small, glossy drongo inhabits forest edge, while a larger and more widespread species, Black Drongo, is also common on the wires above Taiwan's many paddyfields.  

After Swinhoe's Pheasant, the Taiwan Blue Magpie is the island's most colourful and spectacular endemic. They fly through the lowland forest (or forest edge) in small family groups, often descending to the ground to feed. The long patterned tail ends in a characteristic curl. This is the only Taiwan species known to nest co-operatively: the breeding pair are assisted in feeding the young by other members of the group, presumed to be the previous year's young. All of the group help build and defend the nest. 

Up near the tree-line, at about 2600 metres, the White-whiskered Laughingthrush is the most conspicuous and confiding bird. It is a very easy endemic to observe as it approaches the walker hoping for crumbs. Laughingthrushes are not in the thrush family, but belong to the enormous family of babblers which have radiated into 309 species, of 84 genera. Most are in Asia, but some also in Africa. The Wrentit - found in California - has also recently been shown to be a babbler. Of Taiwan's 24 recognized endemics, half are in the babbler family. 

 Here is an endemic robin, also up near the tree-line. Formerly called Collared Bush-Robin, it is now known as Johnstone's Robin. This is the more brightly coloured male. It is instantly recognizable as a robin by its behaviour, so similar to our familiar European species. Interestingly however, it is placed in the genus Luscinia (with the nightingales and Bluethroat) not in Erithacus like 'our' robin. 

Many thanks to group members Ken, John, Richard, Edna and Iain who have all contributed a photo or two to these two Taiwan posts.   

Taiwan

In April I led the Ornitholidays tour to Taiwan, a friendly and fascinating country with superb mountain forests. In this first blog, I'll deal with a few aspects of the country; and soon follow it up with another blog of the bird life that we encountered. This photo shows a scene from the mountains of Dasyueshan, where we spent three nights. The higher altitudes - up to 3000m - are clothed in mixed coniferous forests - cyprus, hemlock, and spruce - while lower down there is a greater variety of deciduous trees including many rhododendrons just coming into flower. Up here is where we saw the majority of the endemic species. (Click on any photo to enlarge).

The Taiwanese are very efficient at land-use in the lowlands. Rice is widely cultivated, often on a small scale without much mechanization. The lowlands on the west side of the country are also where most of the factories producing the 'Made in Taiwan' goods are produced. In April, the weather becomes warm and humid: a prelude to the monsoon rains that follow in June and July. 

Here a gardener tends his patch of vegetables on the outskirts of the capital Taipei. We stopped here to watch three endemics: Taiwan Whistling Thrush, Taiwan Scimitar Babbler, and the country's national bird: Taiwan Blue Magpie. However, most of the 24 endemics that are currently recognized live up in the mountain forests. As more DNA work is done on relationships, many more of the 60 or so endemic subspecies will be elevated to species status. 

Here's a typical urban scene: the town of Dongshi that was established as a timber centre as it is situated below Dasyueshan's mountain forests. Barn and Striated Swallows are totally at home in these settings, and find places to nest above the streets. Sometimes they can be seen hawking for insects at night thanks to the street-lights. 

Not all is rampant materialism in Taiwan. There are many ornate temples, like this Tao temple on the forest edge at Huben. There are also many Buddhist temples: and an easy relationship between the two religions. Adherents observe each other's festivals and visit each other's temples. The decoration inside some of the temples and on the roofs is wonderful:

Costa Rica

My tenth Ornitholidays tour to Costa Rica was especially enjoyable, with a small group and a new itinerary that involved less travelling than my previous ones. We saw 32 hummingbird species, such as this pair of Fiery-throated Hummingbirds up in the mountains. (Click to enlarge). Each one weighs 5.7 grams, a real heavyweight in comparison with the Stripe-throated Hermit (2.6 g). They can consume twice their weight each day - mostly nectar but also insects for extra protein. On the left is a male Violet-crowned Woodnymph. Among all animals, hummingbirds have the largest heart and brain proportionate to their weight. And although they always seem to be buzzing around in hyperactive flight, in fact they only fly 20% of the time.

Elsewhere we searched a stretch of river for the beautiful Sunbittern, and soon found this juvenile feasting on tadpoles. An adult would have similar plumage but a longer bill. Nearby we found one parent, and downstream a riverside nest where the other was incubating a single egg (though two is the normal clutch size). Though superficially heron-like, the Sunbittern is in a family of its own.

 Keeping on the waterbird theme, we came across a colony of Boat-billed Herons, normally strictly nocturnal but here content to sit in the sun, on its nest among the papyrus. Its diet of fish and crustaceans does not differ much from other herons, but it alone uses its bill as a scoop.

 
Tinamous always look to me out of proportion: like a small child's drawing of a bird. This is a Great Tinamou that wandered across the track behind us in Carara National Park. They are more often heard (an eerie whistle) than seen, and only the male has any part in incubating and raising young. 3 to 5 turquoise eggs are laid in a depression on the ground; and a few minutes after hatching the male leads the patterned, downy chicks off into the forest. 

Not far from the tinamou, we watched Blue-crowned and Red-capped Manakins bathing. But in a different part of the same forest, we watched this male Orange-collared Manakin at its lek. In the breeding season, manakins spend up to 90% of the time displaying, with greatest intensity when a drab green female appears. Their snapping sound (like breaking a dry twig) is not a vocalization, but made by the males' wings; they also have a variety of whistles and chirrups. Feeding on large fruits takes little enough of their time, such that they can carry on clubbing. Little surprise that males play no part in the nesting chores.

The Resplendent Quetzal was one bird we all hoped to see. We found this male in the mountains at about 2300m, perched in a favourite avocado tree - which also attracted another male and two females. They are especially ornate members of the trogon family, and nest in holes in dead trees. It is the national bird (and currency) of Guatemala, a nation that has fallen well behind Costa Rica in protecting its forests. Ironically, the national bird of Costa Rica is a humble clay-coloured thrush whose claim to fame is its song, which wakes everyone up much too early in the mornings! 

Many thanks to Herman (manakin) and Chris (tinamou and heron); the other photos are mine. 

Antarctica at Christmas

This was my first Christmas visit to Antarctica. Again, I worked as staff ornithologist for One Ocean Expeditions, this time aboard a Russian ship, Vavilov. During my 36 days on board, we took three groups of passengers from Tierra del Fuego to the frozen continent and back. The third, longest voyage included a visit to Falklands and South Georgia. Previously, I'd been in November (when penguins have eggs) and in February (when the chicks are well grown). Now I had the chance to watch them hatch...

I took this photo on Christmas Day. Most of the Chinstrap Penguins were still incubating, but a few had hatched. Here, a parent (probably the male) gives the new arrival one of its first meals, of regurgitated krill. (Click on the image to enlarge). Once the female has laid her two eggs, she needs to return to sea and put on weight she has lost while egg-laying. So the male takes the first turn at providing food.

In the same Chinstrap colony a pair of Macaroni Penguins comes to nest each year. Normally they live further north, in South Georgia, but a few odd pairs nest in the South Shetlands, just off the Antarctic Peninsula. On the first two voyages, most of our passengers were not keen birders, but most were very happy to see the stranger in the colony. When we returned on the third voyage, after our visit to South Georgia, both partners were onshore. Unfortunately I have not been able to discover if the pair has ever been successful at breeding so far south. 

 The Gentoo Penguins are the new success story along the Antarctic Peninsula. While the Chinstraps and Adelies decline, the Gentoos are increasing and starting new colonies. These changes are closely related to a reduction in winter sea-ice around their breeding grounds. Gentoos are an open-water penguin, while their two relatives need more sea-ice nearby. The water below sea-ice is a vital nursery for young krill, the basis of almost all the Antarctic food-chains. Gentoos lay eggs a week later than Chinstraps: I took this photo of a day-old chick and egg in early January. 

Westpoint Island, in the Western Falkland Islands, is the site of a fascinating mixed colony of Black-browed Albatross and Rockhopper Penguins. In early January, both these very different species have young of a similar age. The albatross only ever lay one egg, but the Rockhoppers lay two. Usually only one of the chicks survive, but this year we saw plenty of healthy-looking twins. The penguins 
gain protection from the longer-necked albatross when predators are flying over (such as Striated Caracaras). The albatross, on the other hand, only just seem to tolerate their flightless neighbours,and arguments between the two are a regular and noisy occurrence.

A visit to one South Georgia's great King Penguin colonies is always a highlight of any voyage. So what's going on here? The paunchy-looking penguins are in fact incubating an egg on their feet. Most will hatch in February. Meanwhile, in the foreground, a juvenile hatched last February is soliciting food from a parent. Already it is considerably heavier than the parent. It will need its extra weight, since it is about to spend two weeks moulting into waterproof plumage, before heading out to sea. Its parents have no way of teaching the young to fish: they must learn by trial and error. The spare fat will soon be used up! 

Fur Seals are in the sea-lion family, not at all related to the true seals. They are abundant in South Georgia, having almost been exterminated two centuries ago for their dense, waterproof fur. Most of the pups are black, but one in a hundred is a blond. The adults occasionally bite human visitors, but they can usually be scared off by clapping hands together as they charge. Now their over-abundance is starting to be a problem: they are starting to collapse the burrows of various nesting petrels such as Antarctic Prions. Before the sealers reduced 
fur-seal numbers, the thousands of great whales around South Georgia would have kept fur-seal numbers in balance (since both are krill-eaters). But now, following sixty years of devastating whaling, fur-seals continue to increase. At least some whales are flourishing now: we saw plenty of Humpback (pictured) and Fin Whales, plus a few Minkes and Orcas. 


In the evenings there was plenty of time to relax in the bar with a song or two. Here Quinn and I are re-creating a song composed in 1916 on Elephant Island. When Shackleton's men were marooned there and eking out a meagre living awaiting rescue, the banjo they had with them helped to keep them cheerful. Passengers helped us with the chorus, "Oh Frankie Wild-o tra-la-la-la-la-la-la!"

And on Christmas Day, Liz, Amanda, Eva and I put our ornithological hats on as we negotiated another hard day at the office. Yes it is work, looking after 80 or 90 passengers, but it's a great privilege, and I can't wait to head back south in November!